In 2003, by order of the Garda, a double yellow line was drawn on both sides of the road, where it ran along 'the second cove'. That was the spot where Dusty picked up swimmers that year. You see, people parked their cars everywhere and went for a dolphin stroll with the whole family. This all went in an amiable fashion, because it was not prohibited to park there.
A similar situation has existed for years at the 'fishing mile', between Blackhead and Ballyvaughan, where often for hundreds of metres only single lane traffic is possible. Now the Irish cannot see a car in front of them, as they very much insist to overtake it. In traffic flow, however, they are totally tolerant, so oncoming problems at the fishing mile are usually settled amicably.
Had only the 'dolphin mile' been left uncharted then never a problem would have arisen. But soon the news ran that the dolphin could be found at the double yellow line spread like wildfire, so there the crowds gathered. For Irish genius reasons that, if something is prohibited, apparently it is done. And why them and not me?
(A possibly even more hilarious example of the folly of office can be found in the toilet at Fanore beach. A sign there says that it is not allowed to rinse your sandy feet in the toilet bowl. Isn't that a clever idea!)
The story goes that at one time the dolphin mile got so congested that an ambulance could not get through. Dusty got the blame and the Council considered culling the dolphin. Fortunately there was Simon Berrow, biologist and dolphin authority. He put forward that the dolphin is a protected species under European law. Thereupon the liquidation of Dusty was aborted.
The next year Dusty was so wise as to leave for the Boathouse Bay. After five years she's back at Fanore.
Now the parking options closest to the 30 metre stumble descent to Pollenawatch are very limited. No more than max six cars. Other possibilities are from prohibited to perilous and a long walk. That selects the die-hards. With a picnic basket and a train of kids across the rocks and back, forget it.
And when you've finally reached the gate to the rocks with your wetsuit and other stuff, please be so gallant as to lay back the beam. James, the owner of the field, is so hospitable as to let us pass across his property.
Do not betray his confidence, leave his cattle alone and leave no rubbish behind. And for the beam, it's not there without purpose. It won't be the first time a cow toddles off for a swim with the dolphin and doesn't manage to get up again.
On the rocks, take the best of care of yourself. They appear to be soft and undulating, but the green hair weed makes them extremely slippery and they are a hard place. Quite a few tail bones can tell the tale.
Then, at last, you have reached Dusty. At least, if she's there. She is such a darling. I have swum, with two handfuls of others, with her for nine years now. Yesterday I hung with my face within reading glass distance from her left eye. And that eye needs no smile. She usually has them half closed and such peace pours from them, such fulfilment with existence, in her eyes anyone can find compassion.
Now very seldom there are some old sports from the Flipper days in the water and they think by definition dolphins do not object, even enjoy, towing someone through the water by their dorsal fin. Not so at all, only after solitary confinement, as that's how they 'learn' tricks.
Each and everyone tries to touch Dusty, to stroke her. She must like that or she wouldn't come so close. But sometimes she avoids your hand by a few centimetres. What she don't want, she don't do. Just go for a nice swim and enjoy the underwater panorama. She will show up, for you alone.
Very important, don't touch her blowhole. Like you don't stick your finger up your friend’s nose!
Then think yourself to be the dolphin. You can just walk out of the water, but she can't. If you get in her way to the open sea, she feels trapped. She can sweep you out of the water with one stroke of her fluke. She won't. But what happens is that a bit further away with her fluke she wallops the white out of the water. Geddit?
Also she doesn't like you to barge into a tête-à-tête she's having with somebody else, especially when with a close friend. That's not so hard to keep in mind. Among people you're not supposed to just elbow into a conversation either.
When Dusty is really angry she claps her jaws together. If you have a slight grasp of dolphin you will have seen how they leave their toothmarks on each others’ skin. These parallel scratches are called 'rakes'. I'm happy to have never seen anyone with rakes on his wetsuit.
Some people seem to enjoy recognising aggressive behaviour and judge that has to be countered. Don't give them an excuse. The patience, love and attention you can receive from Dusty are entirely up to you.
Don't forget you enter her world, that you are her guest and that you show respect. It's your choice to either feel wretched or to cherish her memory for the rest of your life.