Dolphin Address 22 2003
August 3, 2003
'Where the scent of wild roses
turns the milk to cream
'Velvet Green'
Jethro Tull
When the rhythm of your life is related to the tide, of the ocean as well as of inspiration, than food is not often first on your list. I seldom miss my three slices of McCambridge for breakfast. To fight the worst hunger in between I drink rather a lot of milk, until four liter a day. The colder the better. Until recently the gas station in Doolin had the coldest, but a week or two ago I saw a thermometer in the milk fridge in the Ballyvaughan gas station indicating exactly one degree. For that, and to keep my second battery charged, I take a detour of 20 km.
Tea I also find very important as a touchstone for the mind, to force me to temporarily do relatively nothing. That I prefer to do on Bridie's 3 D terrace. I used to go to the Tea Gardens in Ballyvaughan, but since I recently had to wait twice a quarter of an hour for a small pot of tea the fun has gone out of it.
The same goes for 'Monk's' in Ballyvaughan, but for a different reason: I had to pay upon ordering. Then you know for sure you have to wait until the cows come home. Then you'd better go, until six o'clock, to 'The Tea Junction' in Ballyvaughan. There is a homey atmosphere with an open kitchen and the service is distinctly friendly and swift. I do not know how their other dishes taste, for three years ago I have fallen for their 'Tuna Melt'. This is so generous, that it fills my need for the rest of the day.
'The Rising Tide' is more of a gourmet restaurant. It looks delicious, but I come for the computer. They have two machines and recently these are occupied ever more often and prolonged by local businesspeople. Therefore I tend to go more often to Post Script in Kinvarra. The dynamic Deborah has published two editions of 'Dolphin Address' in her 'AD MAG', which has made me world famous all over the place.
But I stray. Somewhat to the southwest of Ballyvaughan a new, Italian restaurant has opened, 'The Holy Well'. It is an indeed frugal, but spatially constructed beautiful building with lovely large tables, outstanding service and delicious food. The 'Pizza Quatro Formaggio is a cheese dream, one can sit outside and there is a telephone booth. Only too bad they are too good. You can hardly risk going there without a reservation. The prices now are still very moderate, but I fear they will be doubled next year.
Another 'Holy Well' is situated between Ballyvaughan and Blackhead. This one flows inside a 'Folly', these are small buildings that used to be made to the order of rich people, just for fun. Bridie disputes that the well is holy. She says it is a 'wishing well'. That it is for sure. Usually there are quite a few coins on the bottom, but these are 'harvested' regularly. The incoming water is pretty cold and very tasty. Still one has to heed dead sheep and pissing vandals.
In Fanore this year the restaurant 'Café Fán óir' has opened. This has saved me a lot of rides. It seems as if the Chef is directly inspired by the surrounding splendors of nature. I have never eaten a better 'Spicy Chicken' or 'Sirloin Steak' anywhere in Ireland. The atmosphere is cosy and very local. If, after a turbulent afternoon with Dusty, you want to regain your strength, this is the obvious address.
The 'Admirals Rest' is famous for letting people wait big time, even for the menu. The customers I occasionally see behind the windows, are presumably too bored to have nothing else to do. Or maybe they don't even notice at all.
Also totally new is Vernon's fast food mobile, just south of Poul Sallagh. I have never eaten there, but the fact that he is still there is a recommendation in itself.
I skip Lisdoonvarna, except for 'The roadside Tavern', because that is a nice pub.
Last year I ate at McDermotts in Doolin every day, Beef Lasagna for 8 euro. Now it's 12. I don't take that. Sometimes I drop in for a sparkling water. In the shop you pay 0,98 cent for 150 cl. At McDermotts you pay 2, 10 euro for 30 cl. The famous Irish ambience costs a pretty ugly penny.
A little more to the south, in the middle of Doolin, is 'Pizza di Mario', a true tourist trap. Far too expensive, cardboard pizza's and would be rich customers.
Finally I want to mention 'Mrs. O'Briens Kitchen' in Lahinch. Good food, nice place. Don't be tempted, however, to go upstairs for a pizza. I took the 'Cheese Fest'. Really, I trust the good intentions, but you'd better fill potholes with them.
Jan Ploeg, Fanore Meadow, August 8th 2003
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